Upcoming trip to Scotland

[Edward]

I shall be spending the second half of September vacationing in Scotland; and, as I have never visited there before, I was hoping to receive some input from those who reside there or who have taken similar journeys (I have read through numerous travel guides in both paper form and on the Internet, but they do not answer all of my questions).

Specifically:

(1) How taxing would an automobile journey be along the coast of the North and Northwest Highlands (i.e., from Ullapool to Inverness) and the coast of Northeast Scotland (i.e., from Inverness to Dunnottar Castle)? Should I be wary of renting too small a vehicle? (I have read that there is a stretch of Northwestern Scotland roadways notorious for car break-downs) Is travelling on these roads very slow going? (I plan on renting a car in Inverness from the morning of Sunday, September 24th to the evening of Thursday, September 28th - I just do not want to bite off more than I can chew; I am wholly unfamiliar with the terrain on these routes.)

(2) Are there one or two Scotch distillery tours that are far more appealing than most? Also, are there any fine brands of Scotch that seem difficult to acquire outside of Scotland (or in the United States)?

(3) Is there anything along the driving routes that I presented in (1) above that I should try not to miss? I realize that there is much to see in Scotland, and it would be foolish to try to see it all in one visit (I wish that I had another two weeks to visit the Western Islands, Orkney, and Shetland, among other places); but, still, I would like to see as much as reasonably possible.

Any advice that you have to offer in regard to the above (or any other matter relating to my trip) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

[B. Clugston]

You've picked a beautiful part of the world to visit.

I can't comment on the northwest Highlands, but I have been as far north along the eastern side as Inverness and then headed southwest along Loch Ness to Fort William and Glencoe. No problems with the roads on those routes. The roads are much slower going than North America in speed limit, capacity and the fact the routes aren't always that direct. But we are talking about a country that's half the size of California, so it's not a big deal.

Never been to Ullapool. Can't help you on the scotch, either, though there seem to be distilleries everywhere to the west. Inverness to Dunnottar Castle would be a short day trip. I really like Inverness. Aberdeen is a fair-sized city on the way to Dunnottar. The whole north of Scotland is beautiful.

Have a great trip.

[sidewinder]

If you wanted to check out a particularly wild and beautiful part of Scotland, head up to the Isle of Skye, accesible via the toll bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh. I did a diving trip up there some years ago and the scenery (above and below water) was spectacular. Difficult to get to and it rains quite a lot - but it's worth the effort.

The pubs there are good too !

[Rooster_Ties]

Don't overlook Glasgow.

[reg]

hi Edward.

When you say Ullapool to Inverness, do you mean a straight line, or are you going via the top of Scotland (i.e. Durness & John o' Groats)? We did this a couple of years ago in our little Fiat and the roads are really not a problem. Inverness to Dunnottar Castle wouldn't take much longer than about 2 and a half hours. Dunnottar Castle is perhaps my favourite castle of all time. If you're planning your routes, a good site is www.theaa.com which will give you estimates for driving times.

I'm not too sure about the distillery tours but I'll ask around for you. I've been on the tour at the Royal Lochnagar Distillery, next to Balmoral Castle which was quite good.

At Assynt, north of Ullapool, you can get a boat trip up to Britains highest waterfall. I've never been, but would like to someday. http://www.assynt.info/page9.html

Reg

[Edward]

I thank all of you very much for your input. I have chosen to overlook Glasgow on this particular trip (please forgive me - again, there is far too much to see in 11 days), and I am unsure how much time I will be spending on the Isle of Skye. The decisions that I have made thus far as to what to see and what not to see may seem arbitrary, but I have no doubt that I will return to Scotland in the not too distant future. I have been trying to piece everything together over the last couple of weeks, and I have found that the geography and train schedules to certain cities/towns to be limiting factors.

Reg,

I meant to indicate that I would be traveling from Ullapool to Inverness via the top of Scotland (Durness et al.) For the last five days of my trip (when I have a car), I have determined little else than that I would like to drive along much of the Northern coastline, visit Dunnottar Castle, and perhaps take days a day hike to Sandalwood Bay and/or Cape Wrath. Now, I will also definitely have to consider visiting the waterfall at Assynt.

The website showing estimates of times for driving routes is EXACTLY what I need - thank you!!!

Thanks also for looking into the distillery tours for me. I am a Scotch drinker, and it would be a shame if I did not visit at least one distillery during my trip.

[connoisseur series500]

I had my wedding ceremony in Sterling, Scotland.

[tonym]

Hi Edward, i wouldn't worry about what type of vehicle you hire during your road trip up north; many of those breakdowns could be simply down to punctures or maybe the 'locals' running around in 30 year old British Leyland motors Any modern car would suffice for any trip around the UK!

As for distillery tours...this page may help you decide! If you're a fan of peaty, salty and ocean blown malts then a trip to islay should be up your street. I'm planning a run up there next year. I'm sure other Scotch fans on the board will differ wildly about the relative merits of their own favourites but the island itself is supposed to be worth a look anyhow.

Let us know how your plans are going.

[brownie]

You've already been told not to worry about the car. No need to rent a big one. You'll enjoy the slow drive!

Just to add a piece of advice on a couple of places you should aim on visiting.

When you travel northward from Ullapool, don't skip the western road going thru Lochinver and Drumbeg. Lots of spectacular sceneries up there.

Also do try to visit Skye! Reallyt worth a special trip!

[Edward]

You've already been told not to worry about the car. No need to rent a big one. You'll enjoy the slow drive!

Just to add a piece of advice on a couple of places you should aim on visiting.

When you travel northward from Ullapool, don't skip the western road going thru Lochinver and Drumbeg. Lots of spectacular sceneries up there.

Also do try to visit Skye! Reallyt worth a special trip!

Well, I think that you and Sidewinder (as well as a look at some photos of Skye in a book of Scotland driving tours) have compelled me to reconsider my plans. Upon second glance, the train schedule will allow me to depart Kyle of Lochalsh for Inverness late Friday (I will be arriving in Mallaig via the West Highland Railway steam train around 12:30 p.m. earlier that day - I am going to have to take a ferry to Skye then cross the bridge in order to make it back to the mainland at Kyle of Lochalsh). I will then be able to pick up my rental car early Saturday rather than Sunday, affording me a full extra day to explore Scotland by car. The funny thing is that the automobile rental establishment that I am considering (it is the best and cheapest option of all of those that I have explored) charges the same amount whether I pick up a vehicle to be returned Thursday evening on either Saturday OR Sunday.

As for distillery tours, I truly appreciate the recommendation, Tony, but I do not think that I will be able to make it to Islay this time. Fortunately, there appears to be a fair number of distilleries operating in Northeastern Scotland.

Edited August 16, 2006 by Edward

[sidewinder]

Good decision. Have a great trip up there. The hospitality in that part of Scotland is first rate. The only downer is the rain but with a dram or two inside you that will not be an issue !

Talking of remote bits of Scotland - on one occasion I was driving in the Perth area not far from Culloden (just after a business trip) en route to the airport for a flight back that day. A small sign at one of the small villages said 'Tonight in Village Hall - Stanley Turrentine In Concert'. Can you believe that? To say I was pissed off at missing this would be an understatement. .

Not to mention that Stanley T. was touring places out in the middle of nowhere in 'Braveheart' territory !

Edited August 16, 2006 by sidewinder

[tonym]

Mallaig is beuatiful. Even in heavy rain.

[fent99]

Mallaig is beuatiful. Even in heavy rain.

I'm from Aberdeenshire myself though I live in London.

Can't fault the advice so far. The west is the most beautiful part of Scotland to me (though I'm from the east) and I'd spend the most time there on any vacation (and Skye is fantastic). The north coast is a bit bleak and windswept but the drive down to Inverness is pretty nice. Since you've got a bit of time and are going to head east you're in my home turf so...

Stuff to catch on the way from Inverness depends on your route and time. The main road is a bit tedious and busy but it'll get you to Stonehaven quickly enough. Detour to some of the National Trust castles though and (if you pick Fyvie Castle let me know since my mum works there)

Alternatives are via the coast and there's a colony of dolphins in the Moray Firth and some great places on the way round. Great art gallery in Duff House, Banff.

Make sure you stop at some of the villages Pennan, Crovie/Gardenstown and there are really nice coastal walks with red sandstone cliffs and caves. Fabulous beach and Dunes at Newburgh too.

Or...

If you're looking for distilleries. I'm a big fan of Speyside malts and this site has a distillery finder. http://www.scotch-whisky.org.uk/ Always great to buy the stuff you've seen them make. I haven't been on a tour in Speyside since I was at school so I can't recommend any tour in particular. Try to get a bit of a tasting at a whisky shop (sure there's one in Inverness) and see if that helps you pick a distillery? (I like the Macallan myself)

If you pick Speyside then I'd recommend driving to Aberdeen via Tomintoul and down through Royal Deeside for a great drive (Aberdeen via Tomintoul and Ballater on the AA planner) through great scenery. Plenty of other castles on the way too and hill or scenic walks in Deeside.

I'd not give too much time to Aberdeen myself though its a nice enough mid sized city Granite means its very grey on a grey day and fine when its sunny.

For a flavour of the area esp. round Stonehaven/Dunottar read Sunset Song by Lewis Grassic Gibbon.

Edited August 17, 2006 by fent99

[Edward]

Thank you all for your advice thus far. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where to stay in Speyside? I shall arrive in the area around noon on Wednesday, September 27th, and I want to visit a distillery or two before nightfall. The B&B's in which I am considering staying are in or about Dufftown, Craigellachie, Aberlour, and Tomintoul. I am just a little concerned about safely reaching my B&B late in the day (in wholly unfamiliar territory) after having a bit of Scotch.

Otherwise, my itinerary and accomodations are fairly well set:

Sunday, September 17th: arrive at London Heathrow around 12:30 p.m. and catch a Caldonian Sleeper to Stirling at 8:00 p.m.,

Monday, September 18th: arrive in Stirling around 5:10 a.m.,

Tuesday, September 19th: depart Stirling for Edinburgh in the morning hours,

Wednesday, September 20th: spend the day in Edinburgh,

Thursday, September 21st: depart Edinburgh for Glasgow in the morning hours; catch a 12:40 p.m. train to Fort William, arriving at 4:25 p.m.,

Friday, September 22nd: take the Westhighland Rail from Fort William to Mallaig, arriving around 12:30 p.m.; catch the ferry from Mallaig to the Isle of Skye and then make my way to Kyle of Lochalsh; depart Kyle of Lochalsh around 4:48 p.m., arriving in Inverness around 7:19 p.m.,

Saturday, September 23rd: pick up my rental car and make my way to Durness,

Sunday, September 24th: make my way from Durness to Ullapool - I will definitely take a day trip to Cape Wrath this day, and I would also like to hike to Sandwood Bay this day or the next,

Monday, September 25th: make my way from Ullapool to Plockton,

Tuesday, September 26th: visit the Isle of Skye and return to Plockton for the evening,

Wednesday, September 27th: depart Plockton for Speyside and visit a distillery or two (I probably only have time for one?) on the Malt Whiskey Trail,

Thursday, September 28th: take the route recommended by fent99, being certain to visit Dunnottar Castle before heading back to Inverness to drop off the car that evening; depart for Stirling from Inverness via train at 8:15 p.m., arriving at 11:00 p.m.; depart Stirling for London via Caledonian Sleeper just after midnight, arriving in London at 7:43 a.m. on the 29th

Friday, September 29th: depart London Heathrow for Los Angeles mid-afternoon

I still have to figure out exactly what I am going to do each day, and I am mindful about spending too much time driving on any single day.

Do you think that it would be best to ship any Scotch that I purchase directly from the shopkeep to the United States, or are there some sort of restriction/s in place that would prohibit this?