This was the first one I thought of, and Larry expressed it more eloquently than I could!
That's a great version by Sinatra and the album is the apogee of his career I think. Someone else mentioned Ben Webster - his performance of 'Willow' on the Harry Edison album 'Sweets' seems to me to be Ben at the peak of his playing too. Gorgeous sound and a perfect combination of his technique and the full maturity of his conception.