Those sort of Olympian pronouncements are still around but, in general, I think much 'criticism' is far less dogmatic these days. The magazine I've read more or less constantly for the longest, Gramophone, has changed immeasurably. It used to read as if it was being written from a lofty, crenellated tower above Magdelan College. Much more polite and sensitive now.
I know some prefer the 'strong opinions' approach of the likes of Larkin. I prefer to see a bit more open mindedness to the possibility that what the reviewer doesn't care for might hold attractions to others.
I've never read Larkin but have often seen him bracketed with Kingsley Amis as an example of the post-WWII lower-middle class grammar school boy making his way noisily and disruptively into the 'arts' world dominated by the upper classes in Britain. Strange that the sort of dismissiveness that you see in MG's quote could have come straight off the pen of one of the elite he'd been annoying.
You've really got the Larkin mode there with your "lofty, crenellated tower", Bev! He writes how "a pile of scratched coverless 78s in the attic can awaken memories of vomiting blindly from small Tudor windows to Muggsy Spanier's 'Sister Kate'".
Agree with you absolutely on preferring to see open mindedness, etc.
I have read Larkin - just about all of it, actually - poetry, novels, essays, biography - though you have to be a bit apologetic about this nowadays. His and Amis's stars have fallen rapidly in this more sensitive age, and we now forget their honesty, rebelliousness and fantastic literary flair. However, don't read either of them if you want to know about Charlie Parker!