I mean, I'm in no way a "fan", & I used to take the cheap (and not so cheap) shots with great regularity. But the thing is, for all his quirks and such, he's kept on doing what he does and...it's got (and always has had, and apprently always will have) its own interior logic and its own core integrity. I can't say that I find it "deep", but I can't say that I find it "shallow" either. There is substance there, just substance for which I myself have very little "natural affinity". But substance nevertheless.
My final verdict on Brubeck (as of now...) - inhabitant of a parallel universe which holds neither strong attractions or repulsions for me, maybe not that "nice" of a place to visit, and I'd definitely not want to live there, but if somebody tried to tear it down to put up a parking lot, I'd protest with some fervor. He built it, he's kept it up, and he has no call to be anything other than proud about it.
I don't know (and probably don't really care) what is in his game, but there for sure ain't no shame.