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Best CD Burner for LP to CD.


ii-5-i

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I've been considering the purchase of a "stand alone" CD recorder for the sole purpose of LP to CD transfer. To my understanding, HHB starts out as a Pioneer, getting higher quality technology added in England. How do decks of this type compare to the more popular brands? Would buying a quality deck like an HHB be fiscal overkill for just LP to CD transfer?

Thanks.

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I have no experience at all with standalone CD burners. How does one create tracks on the CD-R when recording a complete LP side?

On a PC with a high quality sound card (starting at $150) and a CD burner, you can record and then edit the recording, not only to create tracks but also cut out pops and use an equalizer. It's much more flexible than a standalone recorder. One can also record at high resolution (24Bit/96kHz) and create DVD-As.

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If I had to buy one today, I'd get either a Tascam CD-RW750 or a Denon CDR-W1500. The Denon is a rock-solid machine and can even play back HDCD encoded CDs, which is a nice addition. Tascam's units are basically bulletproof. They have a transport that just won't fail. I believe Chris D bought a Tascam and he's still digging it.

Later,

Kevin

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I bought an HHB this year after doing some research and I LOVE it. You can use PC blanks (you can use the audio ones as well, but you don't HAVE to). You have excellent input gain adjustement, balance for both digital and analog in, can do fades in or out, and really nice sounding converters (both ADC and DAC), and you can defeat or add copy protection to your copy, etc. It has been wonderful to use and has performed flawlessly. You can run in an analog, cd or DAT signal (it won't recognize a dvd signal).

Claude, there are two ways to add track indexes on a standalone burner: manually or automatically. In almost all instances however. . . manually. You click a button (depends on the make and model, some you press the "advance track" button, some the record button, etc.) and an index is inserted. If you use automatically. . . it tends to add indexes a plenty, not necessarily where you would like them to be. . . .

Edited by jazzbo
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Claude, there are two ways to add track indexes on a standalone burner: manually or automatically.  In almost all instances however. . . manually.  You click a button (depends on the make and model, some you press the "advance track" button, some the record button, etc.) and an index is inserted.  If you use automatically. . . it tends to add indexes a plenty, not necessarily where you would like them to be. . . .

Lon:

What I'd like to know (and forgive me because I think I may have asked this question before), is there a way on your machine to index tracks without inserting a split second of silence between the end of the previous track and the beginning of the new one? This is critical when transferring concert material wherein an artist can segue immediately into a new tune and/or where one doesn't like to be jarred audio-wise by a split second of silence being introduced during audience applause between tunes.

Thanks,

Martin

Edited by MartyJazz
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Lon:

What I'd like to know (and forgive me because I think I may have asked this question before), is there a way on your machine to index tracks without inserting a split second of silence between the end of the previous track and the beginning of the new one? This is critical when transferring concert material wherein an artist can segue immediately into a new tune and/or where one doesn't like to be jarred audio-wise by a split second of silence being introduced during audience applause between tunes.

Well, I'm not Lon but I can answer from my perspective. I've never had any "silence" added to my CD-Rs by pressing the Index button during recording. All the index button does is add a flag to the bitstream indicating a new track and resets the timing info. Other than that, it's a seamless transition. I've ripped a couple of live LPs onto CD and added track breaks and the music plays back just like any other live CD.

Kevin

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That really should be the case, silence with an index between tracks, when there is simple indexing involved; there will be an audible pause insert if you have to actually pause the recording for any reason (turning over the tape, etc.)

BUT I have noticed that some machines read these indexes with a slight pause. I have three cd players at home; two of them play these with no interruption, one plays them with a slight pause. (It's the oldest, but I'm not sure that is the factor).

That's all I know.

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Personally I don't like to mess with the material much as far as noise reduction etc. and I like the stand alone burners a lot.

Marty, one alternative if there are audible indexes and it is a bother and it's very important for them not to be there: an unindexed burn.

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Personally I don't like to mess with the material much as far as noise reduction etc. and I like the stand alone burners a lot.

Noise reduction hardly ever has the envisaged result and will usually only have detrimental effects on the music itself.

The "etc." would be click and pop removal and for me that is actually the most important if not even only part of editing the signal.

Edited by couw
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What I'd like to know (and forgive me because I think I may have asked this question before), is there a way on your machine to index tracks without inserting a split second of silence between the end of the previous track and the beginning of the new one? This is critical when transferring concert material wherein an artist can segue immediately into a new tune and/or where one doesn't like to be jarred audio-wise by a split second of silence being introduced during audience applause between tunes.

Thanks,

Martin

I have been using a Phillips CDR 775 with no problems for about three years now. I don't think it is as advanced as some of the other standalone's mentioned, but as a consumer entry level unit it has served my purposes well. I have used in to transfer LPs, cassettes and to record from the TV. If it ever dies on me I will probably consider an upgrade.

To answer your question, I do a lot of trading of unreleased live performances and as a result have transferred many recordings from cassette to CDR. My unit never inserts a gap when I press the button to insert a track index. As someone else mentioned, the only time I get a space is when I have to pause the unit for tape flips.

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If I had to buy one today, I'd get either a Tascam CD-RW750 or a Denon CDR-W1500.

Do they allow programming your CDs from different sources or rearranging the tracks, or do they make only 1 to 1 copies?

Neither has a hard drive so they cannot re-arrange the audio on the fly. However, any standalone CD burner can make a compilation or re-arrange the tracks using the program function. Tedious.

The only easy way to re-arrange tracks is to use your PC.

As I've said before on other threads, I only use CD-RW discs on my standalone audio burner to record LPs. I take this CD-RW over to my PC, extract the .wav files to my hard drive, manipulate the audio (only if necessary) and then burn onto CD-Rs on my PC. The blanks are cheaper and the burn is much faster.

Later,

Kevin

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A strong second for HHB Burn-It, I've had one for a couple of years. As Lon notes, you can use computer cdr's, not just audio, which is quite a bit cheaper. Mine has a remote (I think they all do) and you just push a button on it while sitting on the couch to insert track marks. I haven't had any discs that played back with 2 seconds gaps from this (and I have distributed plenty hither and yon). Definitely my favorite toy from the last 10 years or so.

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I like my Denon CDR-W1500(standalone audio component), but then again my wants are very simple.

Lp, as is, straight to CD-R Audio disc. The Auto Tracking Mark works great on new/quiet LP's with little noise between tracks, so I do not have to hit a button between tracks. I have a feeling the tt quality may be a big factor in the ATM working on LP's.

I have a couple friends that have and like this one, too.

The audio quality is very, very good. Maybe, the main factor in our liking this model.

After making the copy, I mark it 'Master Copy' and use it to make subsequent dubs/comps as needed.

Edited by wolff
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I still use the old Harmon Karden CDR2 model. I had it serviced less than a year after I had it, and it was given some upgrade -- I have no idea what -- but it has worked great ever since. Sound quality is fine, HDCD and 24 bit stuff is all there. I use audio cdrws then transfer them to the computer, erase them, and use them over and over. I manually insert tracks, regardless.

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