-
Posts
13,636 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Blogs
Everything posted by Rooster_Ties
-
The first album on this CD has the distinction of having the first ever recorded version of Woody's tune "Zoltan" - here known as "Theme from Zoltan". The date features Larry Young on piano(!!) - and less than a year later, Young would include Woody on his famous "Unity" date, which we all know included "Zoltan".
-
Cannonball Emarcy Small Group on eBay : cheap
Rooster_Ties replied to Michel_M's topic in Offering and Looking For...
Wasn't me - but I thought about it, and almost did. -
Gotta be some of the Sun Ra "Saturn" issues. Only 300 copies of a few titles, I think I've read somewhere before.
-
Got mine on eBay for about $18 (including shipping). Well worth it.
-
Run, don't walk. This is a GREAT CD, with some prime mid-60's Woody Shaw. Worth up to $20 in my book.
-
An overlooked gem from Chick, from as recently as 2000. AMG Review: Corea.Concerto I've had a recording of this since it first came out, and I had the good fortune to hear Chick perform his piano concerto with the Kansas City Symphony, sometime during the 2000-2001 season. Although I don't think it's quite as 'deep' as I was hoping for, I do still find this work very worthy of repeated listens. His concerto is basically neo-classical, in the "Stravinsky" sense of that term -- though (as you might expect), his is way more melodic that Igor ever typically was. ( An aside: I'm still hoping that Jason Moran does a "jazz piano concerto" someday, maybe in 20 years. But until then, Chick's is probably the next best thing out there. ) As far as Chick's musical legacy goes... I think it all hangs on everything he did prior to about 1972. When I think of Chick, I almost exclusively think of all the different things he did, both as a solo-artist and sideman in the late 60's and very early 70's -- but especially his work with Miles - particularly on all those "lost quintet" recordings (bootlegs) that are floating about. In my younger days, I remember owning a handful of Chick albums from the 80's and early 80's ("Akoustic Band" and "Alive" in particular), and although I sorta liked them a bit at the time, they fall pretty flat for me now. When I'm surfing the used bins, looking for bargains, I usually skip most Chick recordings from the period of 1973-1998. He lost me after "Light as a Feather" (though I do like that album), and he doesn't get 'interesting' again for me again until his "Origin" recordings in 1998. (I'm not saying he didn't do anything of any value between '73-'98 -- just that most of it is of much less interest to me, at least based on what I've heard.) PS: One exception to my prior statement -- the Chick and Herbie "duo piano" recordings from 1978 are pretty cool. B)
-
FS: Davis/Davis/Hutcherson
Rooster_Ties replied to Peter Johnson's topic in Offering and Looking For...
That Hutch disc is great. I used to have it years ago, loaned it out, never got it back, and had to pay $25 to get another one on eBay. Well worth it, however. Not quite a 5-star recording/performance, but I'd give it 4-stars, when you consider that it's a boot. Anybody who already has all of Hutch's classic BN output probably also needs this disc too. -
Goofy stuff on the web
Rooster_Ties replied to Rooster_Ties's topic in Miscellaneous - Non-Political
-
Don't short-change this one. It's better than superb!!! Some 5-star playing from Don Cherry too!!!
-
The rich are different, etc.,
Rooster_Ties replied to Chrome's topic in Miscellaneous - Non-Political
I didn't own my own car until I was 24 years old (in 1993 -- I was born in 1969). -
I've never seen the man in person, myself. But I do seem to remember seeing a few stories on the old BNBB, a couple of which described some pretty off-the-wall behavior and/or comments he had made, from the bandstand. (I even remember that some of the comments were maybe insulting?) I wish I could remember the details, but I do remember that a couple of the stories made me question what I thought about the guy (separate from his music, of course). I don't mean to sully the guy's name without specifics -- perhaps someone else here remembers the thread??
-
Same thing on the list specifically for California (where it seems you live, ss1). Sorry to be the messenger of bad news... California 1. Toyota Camry 2. Honda Accord 3. Honda Civic 4. Toyota Pickup 5. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup 6. Nissan Sentra 7. Toyota Corolla 8. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350) 9. Acura Integra 10. Toyota Van 11. Ford Mustang 12. Saturn SL 13. Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee 14. Nissan Pickup 15. Oldsmobile Cutlass/Supreme/Ciera 16. Ford Explorer 17. Ford Escort 18. Ford Ranger 19. Chevrolet Compact SUV (Blazer) 20. Chevrolet/GMC Suburban 21. Chevrolet Camaro 22. Ford Taurus 23. Toyota Celica 24. Toyota 4Runner 25. Nissan Maxima Have you ever thought about moving??? South Dakota 1. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350) 2. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup 3. Chevrolet Cavalier 4. Honda Accord 5. Pontiac Grand Am 6. Chevrolet Compact SUV (Blazer) 7. Ford Escort 8. Buick LeSabre 9. Oldsmobile Cutlass/Supreme/Ciera 10. Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee 11. Ford Tempo 12. Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan 13. Pontiac Grand Prix 14. Dodge Ram Pickup 15. Ford Taurus 16. Chevrolet Lumina (Passenger Car) 17. Chevrolet Celebrity 18. Chevrolet Metro 19. Buick Electra (Park Avenue) 20. Ford Explorer 21. Ford Ranger 22. Chevrolet Compact Pickup (S10) 23. Pontiac Bonneville 24. Chevrolet Beretta 25. Chevrolet/GMC Suburban 26. Buick Regal 27. Chevrolet Corsica 28. Honda Civic
-
Hey, just don't nobody go sayin' nothin' bad 'bout Andrew Hill - you dig!!!!!
-
Here we go: Top 25 stolen vehicles in your state (based on data in 2002) Click on your state from the map at the top of the page, or just scroll down... For instance, I live in Missouri, and my wife and I both drive Honda Accords ('92 and '93). The theft-rate for Accords is much lower in Missouri, than it is in California, or New York, or Florida... Missouri 20. Honda Accord California 2. Honda Accord New York 2. Honda Accord Florida 2. Honda Accord
-
Depends on where you live. Recently I saw a list of the top-10 cars stolen for each state, and the specific cars vary a great deal, depending on where you live. I'll see if I can find that link... Edit: Well, I haven't found the link where you can look at the list, by state, but here's a quote from a story about it... Source
-
-
AMG Review: The Montreal Tapes, Vol. 2
-
I'll probably be on the road, driving back from St. Louis, on Saturday. But I'll certainly be on the board, in spirit!!!
-
Horrendous shipping & handling costs ...
Rooster_Ties replied to neveronfriday's topic in Mosaic and other box sets...
I've been searching around on Mosaic's website, and can't find any "fine print" about shipping, other than this: I don't see anything about possible additional "shipping" charges on the receiving end. Man, I would not pay one bit of those weird "additional shipping charges" until you look into this a whole lot further. Something smells fishy to me. -
Come on, people. If you don't have the highest bid, then somebody else is gonna win. What's so hard to understand about that?? If you absolutely can't stand to loose in a particular auction, then bid as much as the GNP. Otherwise, bid as much as you really would want to pay for an item, and either that's the highest bid, or it isn't. Nothing to be "baffled" about, no matter who bids when. Back to the discussion of "sniping"... The whole point of sniping is that you don't show your cards (or even anounce your interest in an auction), until the very last second - or last 10 seconds. If an auction doesn't have any bidders at all, then someone who stumbles on the auction in the last hour or two may bid $5 or $10 for something, thinking that they are picking up a bargain. If your highest bid for this item is $25, then by waiting until the very end, you don't give anyone else a chance to chip away at your bid, until they finally outbid you. This happened to me once, before I started using a third-party sniping tool. About two years ago, I had already discovered that bidding at the very end was the way to go -- because I had been outbid before at the very end, several times. (And I always ended up loosing at a price-point that was below my absolute maximum bid, if I had been given the chance to bid again (one more time), after the final bids came in at the last second.) True Story: (and there's a lesson to be learned here): So, a couple of years ago, there's this eBay auction for this really obscure OOP classical CD that I've been looking for, for 3 or 4 years. (The disc had three obscure 20th-century trumpet concertos.) I've never actually seen the disc before (or seen it on-line anywhere either), and I REALLY wanted it, come hell or high water. But the auction closed in the middle of when I literally had to be on-stage for a performance of the Brahm Requiem (I sing in the Kansas City Symphony Chorus). So, 2 hours before the auction closes, there's still no bids on the CD, and the minimum bid required is only $5. Now I really want to make sure I win this thing, so I bid $50 for it, thinking that I'll probably get it for $5 (if nobody else bids on it), or maybe $10 or $12 at most (if anybody else even notices it). So I get home from the gig with the symphony, and -- yes -- I had won the auction. But some guy was also REALLY interested in the disc, and in the last 10 minutes of the auction, he had bid 15 or 20 times for it, chipping away at my maximum bid, dollar by dollar, until he finally gave up at $46 or $47 dollars. OUCH!!!! This was a couple years ago, before I discovered the sniping tools (I use www.auctionstealer.com). But if I had been able to place my bid for this CD at the very last second (last 10 seconds), this guy would have only probably bid $8 or $10 (one of his opening bids, when nobody else had bid on it, including me), and I would have won the CD for something much closer to $10 or $12, or certainly less than $20. But, because I bid 2 hours earlier, then I gave the guy the chance to keep bidding against me, bid by bid, dollar by dollar. And if I hadn't bid $50 (which I never dreamed it would ever even come close to), I would have lost. Also, I could have just as easily bid $40, or $35. I only picked $50 - just cuz that seemed like a reasonable "crazy" amount (but nothing as crazy as $10,000). This is why I always try to bid at the very, very end. I'm sure I lost $25 or even $35 or $40 that night, on this one auction, simply because I placed my bid early.
-
Nothing to be baffled about. Hardbopjazz, I'll bet you a dollar that the guy who won used a third-party sniping tool/site, and he simply had a higher maximum bid than you did. Repeat after me... Bid once, bid the very most you're willing to pay for the item, and bid within the last 10 seconds of the auction. This doesn't mean you'll win every auction, but you will win more auctions that you might otherwise, and you'll pay less over time too. There's no way to "defend" against someone bidding more than you at the last second, even if you also bid at the last second. It just means that someone had a higher max-bid than you did, and there's always that danger. The only way to perfectly defend against not loosing auctions is to bid super-mega-high max-bid prices, like $10,000, so that you are the high-bidder, no matter what anyone else bids (even at the last second).
-
Our 10-year old VCR is on it's last legs, and I think I'm gonna need to replace it this time. (A good cleaning of the heads won't do it this time.) So, I'm looking at fairly inexpensive VCR's (in the "less-than-$100"-range --- and more in the "near-$50"-range). But I also realize that I'm pretty much only interested in having a VCR in order to time-shift my viewing of programs. So, I guess TiVo is probably something I ought to consider too. I don't know the first thing about TiVo, other than I'm sure it costs more than $50 or even $100. Anyway, any thoughts on the subject?? We're planning to get an inexpensive DVD player sometime in the next few months, but I'd like to stay away from a combo "VCR-DVD" unit, out of concern that eventually either the "VCR" part, or the "DVD" part will fail, and that repair costs will be nearly as expensive as just going out and buying a new one. (I'm also opposed to combo "TV-VCR" units, on the same theory -- that it's more likely that half of the thing will fail at some point, and then you've a thing designed to do two separate functions, but only one of the functions works.) More food for thought. Does anybody here have TiVo?? Or am I just as well off buying as cheap a "major-brand-name" VCR as I can find?? Thanks!!! PS: We have fairly old TV's, and we're certainly not interested in "state of the art" TV viewing. We don't rent movies all that much, and picture and sound quality aren't a big concern of ours. I just want something that's decent, and will work for at least 5 years, without any problems. Any danger of them phasing out blank videotapes?? (VHS)
_forumlogo.png.a607ef20a6e0c299ab2aa6443aa1f32e.png)